OK so all four wheels are pretty much at their limits, but this is without taking other factors into account (namely engine braking). You are also unable to determine if you have your brake balance set correctly. Locking all the wheels, while it can stop you the fastest on loose surfaces, is certainly not a good idea as you will be completely out of control, so the car will just do its own thing. Not the best setup to have if you like to trailbrake into corners. Locking the rear wheels will promote oversteer in the vehicle, particularly if you have a little steering lock applied, so will make you lose control of the car very quickly unless you are good at counter steering. Big lockups will also cause the tyre to become flat spotted. Locked wheels will heat up the contact patch of the tyre very quickly, and overheated tyres loose grip rapidly. With the steered wheels locked you are unable to change direction, so the car will plough on in a straight line. Here the front wheels have locked, while the rear wheels aren’t helping you slow down much. NB: These screenshots are from v0.3 but there are no differences for the purposes of these explanations. As a picture is worth a thousand words, these should cut your reading time nicely: After this, get the car up to speed along a flat surface (Blackwood straight after the dip comes in handy), switch to forces view (press F) and floor the brakes. First, get your tyres up to the optimum temperature because cold tyres lack some grip compared to warmed tyres, so before setting the brakes make sure the tyres are at their optimum temperature. The brakes in LFS appear to not have kneepoints, so that’s one less thing to worry about.Ī) To get the brakes nearly perfect, you can just do some trial runs. Note that the brakes are only adjustable between 5% and 95%, so two of the examples I just gave aren’t actually possible in game. Thankfully there are only a couple of adjustments necessary, meaning it should be relatively quick and simple to get your brakes sorted, especially since the settings in the default setups are usually very good.Ī) Basically Max per wheel is how strong your brakes are when the brake pedal is fully depressed, while rearfront bias controls how the brake strength is split between the front and rear wheels (a setting of 0% means only the rear wheels are braked, 100% means only the front wheels are braked, while 50% means the front and rear wheels are braked equally). Hence the guide.Īn essential part of racing is not just going forwards quickly, but slowing down quickly and in the shortest distance possible. This art form is not about what your settings are, but about getting them to work in harmony with each other, the car, the track and the way you drive. Remember, setting up your car is always a compromise – altering one setting to what seems the ideal will usually screw something else up. If you spot anything that is incorrect, or know a better way of explaining anything, please let me know: It could be a good idea to get some idea of the setup options and be used to fiddling with them a little before reading. If you are still unsure of what I’m saying, feel free to contact me and I will try to explain it better. If you are confused by anything, take a deep breath and try rereading the paragraph from the start. I will do my best to explain things clearly, though certain aspects are quite technical and there isn’t really a nontechie way of explaining things. I’ll try to explain what each setting does so you have an idea of what you are actually adjusting, as well as how to adjust the setting to either its optimum (in terms of lap times) or what best suits your driving style (and ability). This is an advanced setup guide, by that I mean I won’t be skimming the surface but will be going into lots of detail (where required), so there’s plenty to read here.
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